On the Road from The Dead Sea to Tiberius, A Dual Perspective

By Susan Hirschbiel & Michael L Weiss

To change this up just a little, we are going to try something new, a dual perspective of the sites we visited. This will not be the famous SNL skit featuring Jane Curtain and Chevy Chase as we both see pretty much eye to eye however, now that I am typing this out maybe we should try that next. Susan will begin with her wonderful commentary and I will follow with my perspective on the same location. I hope you find this expanded commentary interesting and fun.

Susan’s Perspective:

Cheryl Weiss confirms that you don’t come to the Middle East in June, July, and August and indeed it is HOT.  106 high yesterday, but today will be MUCH cooler according to the weather channel – highs only in the mid-90s.  Oy vey.   But we drink and drink and drink and journey forward

Yesterday was a full and rich one.  The first stop is Ein Gedi natural preserve, home of beautiful Ibex, and the largest Oasis in Israel.  The beautiful Song of Songs ( Solomon) speaks of the beauty of this place between Masada and the Dead.  

Michael’s Perspective

I cannot agree more with my wife on this one….it’s hot and after touring all day it takes a toll on you. As we made our way from another wonderful breakfast our group boarded the bus with what seemed like the energy of school-age children heading out for daily recess to the playground. 

Flash forward to the end of the day and we look like those people who need extra time at the front of the boarding line of an airplane, but our exhaustion is a small cost compared to the wealth of what we saw and learned today.  

For me seeing  En-Gedi was more mystical as it was the site of Refuge for David hiding from his father King Saul before David came to the throne. His accession to the throne could be argued as the high point of the Jewish Nation establishing Jerusalem as the Capital and culminating in his 40-year reign.  I agree with Susan that the Song of Songs speaks of beauty and some of the inspiration was indeed found here. However, having read the Song of Songs I would suggest that it might not be an appropriate gift for your grandchildren for their Bar or Bat Mitzvah or anyone possible up to the age of 21.  Let’s just say it’s a little spicy and if you want to kick up your marriage you may want to pull out the Old Testament and give it a new read.

En-Gedi is located in the heart of the Judean Desert and provides a stark contrast to the surrounding harsh and arid landscape. Ein Gedi has 4 springs and several waterfalls that flow all year round, generating approximately 3 million cubic meters of water a year, making Ein Gedi the largest oasis in the Judean Desert. The historic religious significance combined with an active animal population, hiking trails, and waterfalls has made this Reserve the most visited nature park in Israel.

Susan’s Prospective

As we continue north we see the enormous sinkholes that have appeared as the Dead Sea continues to recede.  Bob and Jane tell us that the sea came all the way to the road only 25 years ago, and the sinkholes have left cities abandoned. Without intervention, the water levels are expected to continue to drop with the possibility of the sea disappearing.

Qumran. Is the excavation site of the Dead Sea Scrolls and we are surprised to find ourselves the only visitors but it is Shabbat, and in the 90 s at 9:30 in the morning.  In 1947 Bedouins discovered a clay jar containing 7 scrolls which they sold to antique dealers and eventually made the way back to Israel. Further exploration uncovered the oldest existing copies of the Books of Moses, except for the Book of Esther, and are believed to be written by the Essences who lived in Quran.  The scrolls are in Hebrew, Greek, and Aramaic.   

Prior to this discovery, the assumption was that scriptures were changed over time as passed through oral tradition.  However, the words are virtually unchanged from the original interpretation.  To historians, this is confirmation of the authenticity of the discovery.

Michael’s Perspective

As we approach Qumran one cannot notice how barren it is. Perched above the Dead Sea, the area is dry, parched, and exceptionally hot. While climate change may be a factor here, I cannot imagine that this place has changed much in the last 5000 years. The majestic Mountains found here have been swept by the wind since the beginning of time leaving a swirl pattern similar to the patterns wind makes on a flat body of water. When you look closer however you begin to see small dotted entrances to hundreds of caves scattered throughout the area and it was here that the Dead Sea scrolls were found. 

When the Second Jewish Revolt began, the people prepared for battle with Rome and the scholars wanted to ensure the written records of the Jewish People could be preserved safely away from the conflict. It is here in the mountain caves that they came to be safely stored and protected. The scrolls were written between 200 BC to about 68 AD and their find has been called one of the greatest finds in history. 

Susan Prospective

On to the Jordan River and the West Bank.  Qasr Al-Yahud is the baptismal site on the banks of the Jordan River where Jesus is believed to have been Baptized by John the Baptist. It is also believed to be where Joshua crossed the river to enter the Promised Land following the Exodus.  I watched in awe as Bob Henley baptized many of our fellow travelers in this same spot where Jesus embraced his destiny.   I am certain that for our friends this is a momentous moment.

Michael’s Perspective

We continue on our drive through the desert and take a turn off the road to a small site that opens up to a very small tributary of the Jordon River. Here in this section, Israel and Jordon are separated by only a few feet of water, and on each side, you will find a Chapel filled with the Christian Faithful being baptized or renewed in the River Jordon.

As Susan mentioned above, approximately half of our group were renewed in the Jordon River and you could actually feel their joy and excitement as they walked down to the river. Since this was not part of my faith, this was my first experience in seeing this ritual and of all places, where it all began. I am truly honored to have witnessed this important milestone for my new friends and I hope this brings them closer to their faith for the remainder of their lives. 

Susan’s Prospective

As we pass through the checkpoint to the West Bank on our way to Jericho I am immediately aware of entering Palestinian territory for the first time.  Reclaimed during the 1967 war and we as non-Israelis are only allowed to visit as tourists where as non-Arabic Israeli citizens are prohibited to enter without a special exception.  Should I take off the Star of David that I wear around my neck?   We are taken to the Tel by our Palestinian guide and I hear, Muezzins call to prayer for the Islamic community.  I find it enchanting.  50,000 people live in this town which lies 850 feet below sea level.   We are warmly greeted at the Arab restaurant and encouraged to shop.  The shopkeeper shouts out you are our brothers as he assures us safety and friendship.  I feel very much welcomed, but glad the bus is nearby.  

Michael’s Perspective

Crossing into the Palestinian Territories brings mixed feelings for me. I’ve spent considerable time in the Middle East mostly in Arabic countries in the service of the United States. Many in the West question the conflict that has existed with Israel since 1948. Frequently social and traditional media portray a lop-sided opinion of the injustice the Palestinians face by the Israelis but are unaware of the actual circumstances that have led to the state of current Palestine. This is not a political blog, but I feel compelled to state that there have been many wrongs on both sides. As a long-time traveler to the Middle East, I can say with certainty that things are not necessarily as they are portrayed in either social or traditional media. Too many outside regional parties with their own agenda have taken advantage of the Palestinian people for their own geopolitical gains and it is naïve to think it is Israel’s sole fault.  The Palestinian people deserve better and the Israelis should be able to live in peace just as it was in years before. With the normalization of relations between Israel, Egypt, Jordon, and now the UAE, Bahrain, and soon others a real chance for peace is at hand as both countries deserve to live in harmony with one another, in peace and prosperity for all their people. After all, we are cousins.

Susan’s Perspective

On to Tiberius.  Have I mentioned the heat?  Oy vey.

Michael’s Perspective

It’s flipping hot.