Dragons, Temples, and the Art of Self-Defense: A Whirlwind Tour of Taiwan

Taiwan, the island known by many as Formosa, is a land where dragons soar, temples beckon, and history whispers from every street corner. Our journey begins in Kaohsiung, a city that defies expectations with its skyscrapers and parks, industrious spirit, and serene soul. But first, a brief history lesson to set the stage for our adventure.

Once upon a time, about 15 years ago, I arrived in Taiwan to work on a significant defense project. Little did I know that this island, ruled over centuries by Dutch, Chinese, and Japanese before claiming its independence, would capture my heart. Under Japanese tutelage, Kaohsiung’s harbor blossomed, setting the stage for the industrial powerhouse it is today. With a nod to its past and an eye on the future, Kaohsiung has become Taiwan’s third-largest city, a beacon of modernity and tradition.

As we dock, the energy of Kaohsiung is palpable, yet a shadow of geopolitical tension looms, a reminder of the dragon’s dual nature in Chinese culture. Protection or conquest? The answer hangs in the balance, a testament to the complex identity of this island nation.

With its efficiency and charm, Kaohsiung stands in contrast to the capital, Taipei in many ways. Here, art is not just appreciated but a way of life. The streets are canvases, the buildings are galleries, and creativity flows as freely as the Love River that bisects the city. Pier 2 Art Center and Weiwuying district are just appetizers in Kaohsiung’s feast for the senses.

No visit to Kaohsiung is complete without a pilgrimage to the Lotus Pond, where the Dragon and Tiger Pagodas stand guard, and the Zuoying Yuandi Temple offers a quiet respite. But the Fo Guang Shan Monastery, with its myriad Buddha statues, truly captured the essence of spiritual Taiwan.

The city’s light rail whisked us away to the Dome of Light at Formosa Boulevard Station, a spectacle of color and creativity that left us in awe. As dusk fell, our stomachs led us to Liuhe Night Market, a culinary carnival where the tastes and smells of Taiwan come alive, enveloped in a neon glow that feels almost otherworldly.

Yet, as our ship set sail for Keelung, I couldn’t shake the feeling that Kaohsiung, with its blend of modernity and tradition, artistic freedom, and strategic importance, was a city that embodied the spirit of Taiwan itself. Dragons may guard its gates, and temples may dot its landscape, but it is the people of Taiwan, living at the crossroads of history and hope, who make this island genuinely unforgettable.

So, dear reader, if you ever find yourself wandering the streets of Kaohsiung, remember: here, dragons fly, temples beckon, and the art of self-defense is not just about martial prowess but about preserving a culture, a history and a way of life that refuses to be forgotten.