Ah, the open sea! The endless horizon, the gentle rocking of the ship, and the culinary delights that tantalize and then, inevitably, tire. Two weeks into our nautical escapade, even the most exotic menu began to echo the dreariness of a Monday morning without coffee. Fear not, for the eve of our arrival in Osaka – our treasure chest key to the historical wonders of Kyoto – coincided with a celebration most dear: the birthday of my beloved wife, affectionately known as the Duchess, amidst our newfound compatriots from the lands of tea and kangaroos.In a stroke of culinary rebellion against the high seas’ monotony, we turned to the heartwarming embrace of Southern cuisine, orchestrated with the ship’s hotel director and senior chef as my co-conspirators. The feast was a symphony of southern comfort food, minus the quintessential grits, with polenta donning its disguise for the evening. Southern fried chicken, mac and cheese, potato salad, coleslaw, freshly baked biscuits, and a kaleidoscope of sides turned the main dining room into a festival of flavors, leaving a mark of Southern pride on our international assembly. The evening was a smash hit, and the rest of the ship remained envious of the special family-style meal and specular waitstaff service we received. Our new friends ate to their heart contents, and I think we now have a few new converts to southern cuisine.
As dawn broke, our bellies still narrating tales of the previous night’s revelry, we set forth to conquer Kyoto, but not before mastering the steel steed known as the Shinkansen. This bullet train, a marvel of Japanese efficiency, whisked us from Osaka to Kyoto in a mere 22 minutes, redefining my standards for travel. Silent, swift, and smoother than a diplomat’s rhetoric, it delivered us into the heart of Japan’s historical tapestry. It is a shame that in the United States this type of service has not been replicated as it is sorely needed.
The Heart of Japan
Kyoto is the eternal city, where history breathes through the wooden slats of machiya (traditional Japanese wooden townhouses) and the serene gaze of Jizo statues. Here, the past is not a foreign country but a living, breathing companion to the present. Buddhist temples stand in solemn contemplation, Shinto shrines whisper the secrets of the kami, and the Zen gardens invite a meditative introspection that could rival even the most seasoned yogis.
Kyoto encapsulates the essence of Japanese history, culture, and spirit. Unlike any other city in Japan, Kyoto offers a unique blend of ancient traditions and modern life, making it an essential destination for any traveler looking to experience the soul of this fascinating country.
The Ancient Capital
Established in the year 794 AD, Kyoto served as the imperial capital of Japan for over a millennium. This period was known for its significant cultural development, including the birth of classical Japanese literature, art, and the refined court culture that has come to symbolize the elegance of traditional Japan.
With more than 2,000 religious places, including 1,600 Buddhist temples and 400 Shinto shrines, Kyoto is a living museum of Japan’s religious architecture and art. The city is home to 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, which include some of the most famous landmarks like Kinkaku-ji (the Golden Pavilion), Ginkaku-ji (the Silver Pavilion), and Ryoan-ji, known for its zen rock garden. These sites offer a glimpse into Japan’s rich history and the architectural ingenuity of its people.
Each corner of Kyoto revealed layers of history, untouched by the scars of World War II, thanks to Henry Stimson’s (the American responsible for targeting sites in Japan during the war) sentimental veto – a testament to the city’s cultural immortality. His decision has allowed Kyoto to retain much of its ancient charm and character, providing a stark contrast to the more modernized cities of Japan.
Kyoto without doubt is considered the cultural heart of Japan, being the birthplace of many practices that define Japanese culture, such as the tea ceremony, flower arranging (ikebana), and the geisha tradition. The city’s historic districts, such as Gion, continue to be vibrant centers of traditional Japanese arts and entertainment.
Our journey was a pilgrimage through a millennium, tracing the steps of emperors, samurais, poets, and monks.
Yet, amidst this historical reverie, one must not overlook the true spectacle of Kyoto: the cherry blossoms and we arrived at the perfect time. These ephemeral beauties, in their blushing glory, remind us of the fleeting nature of life, urging us to savor every moment, every flavor, every laughter shared over a meal that bridges continents.
A Timeless Love Affair: Kyoto’s Motorikyu Nijo Castle and Kinkakujicho
In the heart of Kyoto, where whispers of the past intertwine with the threads of the present, we visited two iconic landmarks Motorikyu Nijo Castle and Kinkakujicho (the Golden Pavilion). These are not just monuments of historical significance; they are canvases of romance painted with the delicate brushstrokes of Japanese heritage and splendor.
Motorikyu Nijo Castle: A Testament to Love’s Fortress
Imagine walking hand in hand under the cherry blossoms, their petals dancing like soft rain around you, as you step into the world of Motorikyu Nijo Castle. Built by the powerful shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu, this castle was not just a symbol of unyielding strength but also a sanctuary of peace and love within its imposing stone walls.
The castle’s “nightingale floors,” designed to sing at the slightest touch, were meant to protect the shogun from hidden dangers. Yet, one can’t help but imagine these melodious chirps as love songs, serenading those who walk its halls, echoing whispers of eternal devotion. The expansive gardens, with their tranquil ponds and vibrant flowers, serve as the perfect backdrop for a timeless romance, inviting lovers to lose themselves in the beauty and mystery of feudal Japan.
Kinkakujicho: A Golden Reflection
Not far from the stoic beauty of Nijo Castle lies the ethereal Kinkakujicho, or the Golden Pavilion, a masterpiece shimmering in the embrace of a serene pond. Originally a retirement villa for the shogun Ashikaga Yoshimatsu, it was transformed into a Zen temple, embodying the purest forms of beauty and contemplation.
The Golden Pavilion, with its layers of gold leaf reflecting the changing moods of the sky and the seasons, serves as a metaphor for love’s enduring luminosity. In the golden glow of the pavilion, every reflection, every glimmer on the water’s surface, speaks of love’s ability to shine through the trials and tribulations of time. It is a place where love is not just felt but seen in every golden panel and every ripple in the pond—a visual symphony of adoration and commitment.
The Romance of Kyoto
In Kyoto, the romance of the ages is alive and breathing in the stones of Motorikyu Nijo Castle and the golden reflections of Kinkakujicho. These sites are not mere tourist destinations; they are sanctuaries of peace, love, and serenity, where every path and every stone tells a story of hearts united and spirits entwined.
Here, amid the beauty and the history, love is not just an emotion but a journey—a journey that begins in the heart of Kyoto and continues forever in the legacy of Motorikyu Nijo Castle and Kinkakujicho.
So, to all the lovers and dreamers out there, let Kyoto be your muse, your sanctuary, and your inspiration. In its streets, its castles, and its gardens, discover a love that is as enduring as the city itself—a love that, like the golden reflection on the pond, will never fade.
Kyoto represents the enduring spirit of Japan, a city where the past and present coexist in harmony. Its temples and shrines, traditional tea houses, and narrow alleyways offer a timeless experience, inviting travelers to step back in time and immerse themselves in the rich tapestry of Japanese history and culture. Whether you’re a history buff, a lover of nature, or someone in search of spiritual tranquility, Kyoto promises an unforgettable journey through the heart of Japan.
And perhaps, just perhaps, you’ll find yourself, as we did, in a city where the past and present dance in the streets under the watchful eyes of cherry blossoms. Welcome to Kyoto, where every meal, every train ride, and every cobblestone tells a story. Pack your bags, your appetite, and your sense of humor – you’re in for an unforgettable ride.
Thank you Henry!

One reply on “From Southern Comfort to Shinkansen Speeds: A Gastronomic Gallop to Imperial Glory”
What a wonderful birthday – both meal and celebration (the cake looks yummy too)!
Yes – Kyoto is the best 🙂
Pam