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Food Travel

Moses of the Rising Sun: A Culinary Expedition Through Japan

Introduction: 45 Years of Amazement and a Few Extra Inches

Imagine me, a 6’1” gaijin, sauntering down the streets of Tokyo in cowboy boots nearly half a century ago. The sidewalks parted like the Red Sea as the towering foreigner, clad in boots that clacked with every step, marched through. Fast forward to today, and I blend into the crowd with far less commotion. Many of the locals, once shorter, now look me in the eye—thanks, it seems, to their unwavering obsession with something other than height: food.

The Evolution of Taste and Stature

Japan, a place where culinary delights tower as high as the new generation’s height, has transformed dramatically. Where once sushi and teppanyaki ruled, now a cornucopia of global cuisine sprawls across every corner. It’s as though food has become a national sport where everyone participates, but no one keeps score because everyone is too busy enjoying the game.

Fast Food, But Not as We Know It

Forget every preconceived notion you have about fast food; Japan rewrites the playbook. At my daughter’s urging, we ventured into a McDonald’s, a place I’d typically patronize only for its restrooms on a long road trip back home. In Japan, it’s a revelation. Picture this: a Teriyaki Chicken Sandwich, Shake Sack Chicken, Shake Sack French Fries (yes, you shake your chicken and fries with a seasoning packet in a bag), lunch pancakes, and a Grape Fanta for just over eight bucks. All are served hot and crispy at your table in a spotlessly modern setting. It’s fast food, elevated to an art form—so different that even a seasoned traveler can feel the excitement of novelty in the familiar.

A Feast for the Eyes: The Art of Packaging

But the real magic of Japanese cuisine isn’t just in the taste—it’s in the presentation. Packaging here isn’t merely functional; it’s an invitation, a promise of the delights that lie within. Every aisle in the grocery store is a parade of meticulously wrapped goods, from the humblest candy to the finest fish, each package more enticing than the last. It’s as if every item whispers, “Take me home; you won’t regret it.” And more often than not, you don’t.

The Department Store Dining Experience

Then there are the department stores, bastions of culinary wonder that make the old gourmet basements of Macy’s look like mere experiments. In Japan, these food halls are flourishing hubs of activity that defy the global trend of retail malaise caused by online shopping. Here, one can wander for hours, mesmerized by the array of choices from sushi bars to artisan pastries.

The Paradox of Plenty

With such an abundance of options, the challenge in Japan is not finding good food; it’s deciding what to try next. The solution? Let the packaging guide you. It’s an effective strategy, proven time and again, as I, knowing little to no Japanese, found myself repeatedly seduced by the beauty wrapped around the simplest of snacks or the most elaborate of delicacies.

Conclusion: A Landscape Changed, A Love Affair Unchanged

Nearly half a century ago, I walked through Japan as an anomaly. Today, I stroll through a landscape where the physical heights of its people might have somewhat caught up with me, but their unparalleled mastery of culinary delights continues to soar even higher. Japan’s food scene—vibrant, diverse, and unapologetically extravagant in its presentation—remains a testament to the nation’s enduring love affair with eating well.

And as for the people, they remain enviably slender, a mystery only deepened by the fact that they are surrounded by irresistible food yet tempered by the simple act of walking everywhere.

So, whether you’re a returning visitor or a first-time traveler, Japan promises not just a culinary adventure but a full immersion into a culture where food is both an art and a celebration. Just remember to wear comfortable shoes—you’ll need them to explore every delicious corner.

Our fine dining experiences will be up soon, but for now, enjoy the pictures. And excuse me, all this writing has made me hungry.

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