The voyage from sea to city in Japan is less of a journey and more of a cultural slingshot, which we found ourselves strapped into after bidding farewell to our ocean-bound abode of the last five weeks. Leaving the ship with our seven (magically multiplying in weight) bags, we anticipated a simple transition to terra firma—but in Japan, the simplest things often come with a ceremonious twist.
Chapter 1: The Art of Packing and Unpacking Cultural Surprises
The shock of the land was immediate, starting with the puzzle of fitting our burgeoning luggage into what can only be described as an automobile made for ants—or perhaps just minimalist Japanese designers with a penchant for challenging tourists. The car, seemingly undersized for our expansive American tastes, defied physics under the watchful eyes of the Shinto deities, whose temple donations, I suspect, played no small part in our luggage fitting so snugly.
Our immediate departure was not towards Tokyo, as one might expect, but westward to the verdant embrace of Hakone in Japan’s Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, a mountainous town known for its hot springs resorts (onsen) and views of the iconic volcano Mount Fuji. As Yokohama’s towering steel forest gave way to rolling hills, we glimpsed the iconic snow-capped peak of Mt. Fuji. It was a perfect photo-op—had it not vanished as quickly as it appeared, teasing us with its ephemeral majesty as we entered a tunnel, only to emerge to a landscape devoid of the mountain but awash in a switchback road that made our venerable Toyota 4 cylinder moaned with the strain of the challenge.
Chapter 2: Hakone – Where Hot Springs Meet Pirate Ships
Arriving in Hakone felt like stepping onto the set of a fantastical fusion film—part samurai epic, part pirate adventure. Known for its onsen and breathtaking landscapes, Hakone offered an immediate temperature drop that seemed to welcome us with a crisp embrace. The pirate ship cruise on Lake Ashi, though bizarrely out of context, provided a strangely fitting Japanese reinterpretation of a Disneyland ride, blending historical reverence with unabashed tourism. The views of Mt Fuji were spectacular, and the lake can rival Como or Garda in the Italian Alps. It was such an unexpected treat even if we were on a pirate ship.
Chapter 3: Hell’s Valley, A Journey to Earth’s Fiery Breath
Nestled in the verdant landscape of Hakone lies an extraordinary geological spectacle known as Owakudani, or Hell’s Valley. This active volcanic valley, forged through millennia of volcanic activity, offers visitors a glimpse into the raw power of nature and a journey to what feels like the fiery breath of the Earth.
Formed over 3,000 years ago following the last major eruption of Mount Hakone, Owakudani is a stark reminder of the region’s tumultuous creation. The area is marked by rugged, rocky landscapes and billowing white steam vents that emit clouds of sulphuric gas, giving it a primeval and otherworldly appearance.
Visiting Owakudani is not for the faint-hearted. The stark contrast between lush greenery and the barren, gray terrain of the volcanic zone dominates the landscape. Wooden pathways and designated trails guide us safely through areas where the ground beneath seethes with geothermal activity. The air is thick with the pungent aroma of sulfur, and the hissing fumaroles and bubbling hot springs are a constant reminder of the forces churning just below the surface.
One of the most unique and intriguing aspects of Hell’s Valley is its famous black eggs, or “Kuro-Tamago.” These eggs are hard-boiled in the naturally hot waters of the volcanic springs, which are so infused with sulfur and iron that the shells turn a dramatic black. Legend has it that consuming one of these eggs extends a person’s life by seven years; however, I choose not to test this legend.
A View Unlike Any Other
The panoramic views from Owakudani are breathtaking. On clear days, visitors can see Mount Fuji in the distance, its iconic silhouette adding to the dramatic scenery. The contrast between the serene beauty of Japan’s highest peak and the raw, untamed energy of Hell’s Valley creates a visual juxtaposition that encapsulates the diverse beauty of the Japanese landscape.
Due to the active volcanic nature of Owakudani, safety is a paramount concern. The area is closely monitored for volcanic activity, and parts of the valley are occasionally closed to the public during periods of heightened activity. Moreover, we were warned that visitors with respiratory issues are advised to be cautious, as the sulfur fumes can be quite strong, but luckily, this was not a concern for us.
A Testament to Nature’s Power
Owakudani, or Hell’s Valley, stands as a testament to the dynamic power of nature. It combines the beauty of natural scenery with the thrill of exploring an active volcanic site. For those seeking to experience the raw and unfiltered forces of the earth, a visit to Hell’s Valley promises an unforgettable adventure, blending the thrill of danger with the allure of myth. It’s a reminder of the planet’s fiery heart, visible on the surface for us to see and marvel at. Whether you come for the views, the black eggs, or the sheer spectacle, Owakudani is a highlight of any trip to Hakone, offering a profound perspective on the forces that shape our world.
The Enigma of Hakone Open-Air Museum
After lunch at a local Japanese sushi house, the day’s agenda surprised us with the Hakone Open-Air Museum. Unlike any traditional museum, this venue celebrated the symbiosis of art and nature with an array of sculptures that challenged both mind and spirit. Inaugurated in 1969 by the visionary Nobutaka Shikanai, the museum pioneered the concept of environmental sculpture in Japan, showcasing works that harmonize with—and are enhanced by—their natural surroundings.
Sculptures here are not just viewed but experienced, as each piece is strategically placed to interact with the shifting moods of weather and light, ensuring no two visits could ever be the same. Walking the museum’s grounds was akin to exploring a three-dimensional canvas, where each step revealed a new perspective or a hidden narrative.
Chapter 5: Transitioning to Tokyo’s Urban Maze
Leaving Hakone’s natural wonders behind, we were soon engulfed by the high-tech embrace of Tokyo, where our stay at the Hoshinoya Tokyo awaited. This modern ryokan, nestled in a skyscraper, offered a cultural juxtaposition that captured the essence of modern Japan: deeply rooted in tradition yet soaring towards innovation.
The ryokan’s unique approach to hospitality was evident from the moment we entered, shedding our shoes and worldly concerns in the process. The traditional tea ceremony, complete with a geisha performance, offered a poignant reminder of Japan’s meticulous attention to detail and the profound serenity that traditional arts can evoke.
Chapter 6: The Zen of Modern Comfort
Each element of the Hoshinoya Tokyo, from the tatami mats in our room to the communal onsens on roof, was designed to offer a sanctuary from the frenetic pace of the city outside. The delicate balance of luxury and tradition made our suite more than just a place to sleep—it became a retreat, a place to reflect on the day’s adventures and to anticipate the discoveries of tomorrow.
Epilogue: The Journey Continues
Reflecting on our journey from the expanses of the Pacific to the cultural tapestry of Hakone and the bustling metropolis of Tokyo, it becomes clear that travel in Japan is not just about moving from place to place. It’s about moving through layers of history, art, and tradition, each offering its own narrative and nuances.
In the land of the rising sun, every moment is a story waiting to be told, every landscape a poem in its own right, and every meal (even those involving black eggs) a mystery of flavors. As we left behind the world of samurai and geishas, of pirates and volcanoes, we carried with us not just souvenirs but the memory of a time gone by, and in the following morning, we began our conquest of Tokoyo.
2 replies on “Whimsical Wanderings: From High Seas to High Peaks and Hyper-Modern Tokyo”
Love the continuing view into your vacation!!
However no fair with the mattresses in the ryokan; we slept on the floor 🙂
Pam
What an experience, it looks absolutely serene. We can’t be more jealous down here in Florida.